Is now the time for Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo?
Through the years, I have witnessed and participated in countless trends and fads in the beverage world. One trend that has been building for decades is the rise of rosé wines. I watched it go from a fight for acceptance and respect to becoming mainstream in all the right ways. Now we are in the exploration and discovery stage, where wine lovers and merchants are scouring regions and appellations around the globe in search of the next rosé sensation. I’m happy to participate in this phase and advocate for the lovely, delicious wines of Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo.
Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo is a DOC in central Italy in the Abruzzo region and within the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo area. I believe this is the only DOC in Italy dedicated to Rosato (Rosé) wines. The DOC was granted in 2010, with the 2011 vintage being the first to bear the new moniker on the label. Rosé was made in the region for decades before 2010, but it was simply labeled as Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Rosato.
Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo should not be confused with Cerasuolo Di Vittoria, an amazing red, DOCG-level wine from Sicily made with Nero d’Avola and Frappato. Besides the name “Cerasuolo,” which translates to cherry or little cherry, these two wines have no relation or similarity. Cerasuolo Di Vittoria is tricky to find in the USA as the appellation is relatively small and the production level is modest.
Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Rules
Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo must be made with a minimum of 85% Montepulciano, and most of the labels I have sampled utilize 100% Montepulciano. A minimum alcohol strength of 12% must be achieved and 12.5% for Superiore. As it turns out, Montepulciano makes a delicious Rosé. It is not hard to imagine, as Montepulciano has always provided great color, bright floral notes, and juicy red fruit with tannins that can be forward or tamed by a skilled winemaker.
Like most rosés, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo is frequently enjoyed in the summer following the vintage. However, don’t dismiss Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo from older vintages. Many wines from this DOC are sturdy, richly textured, and full of bright, natural acidity, making them suitable for three to five years in the bottle. Cerasuolo (cherry-like in Italian) offers a bright cherry-to-violet color, complex and generous aromatics, and flavors of red berries, tart pomegranate, and great acidity. These wines are equally happy quenching your thirst with nothing more than a glass or pairing with grilled fowl, smoked salmon, bold vegetable dishes, and pizza.
If you are wondering where to begin, a few names are worth committing to memory. Valentini is the most celebrated producer in Abruzzo, and their Cerasuolo is widely considered the benchmark — expect to pay for that reputation. Emidio Pepe is another legendary house, producing wines of remarkable depth and personality. For more approachable price points, Masciarelli’s Villa Gemma Cerasuolo and the amphora-fermented bottlings from Cirelli have earned well-deserved attention from critics and curious wine drinkers alike. Any of these will make a believer out of you.
The bad news is that there aren’t many Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo in the USA, but it is worth asking your local wine merchant if they can locate a few bottles. If you are fortunate enough to be traveling in Italy, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo is now more commonly found in towns large and small. I have enjoyed glasses of Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo in Roman wine bars frequented by locals for under five euros each — an amazing value.
While many Rosé wines from Provence suffer from the ravages of fame, resulting in higher prices and wines that are becoming increasingly more pale with each new vintage (generally), I am pleased to have great options like Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo that are full of gusto and offer characteristics found in the red wines from the varietal.
Do you want to better understand Italian wines and rosé? May we suggest Be A Beverage Expert (BABE), a guide to understanding wine, beer, spirits, and cocktails.