Spain offers a wide range of wines to love, from crisp and fruity whites to deep and complex reds, classic-method sparkling wines, and world-class fortified wines. The winemaking history here is pre-Roman, while winemaking greatly accelerated under Roman rule.
Spain shares the Iberian Peninsula with neighboring Portugal. To the north lie the Pyrenees, separating Spain from France. In the northwest, Spain touches the Atlantic. In the west, central, and south, we find Portugal, Spain’s influential Iberian Peninsula neighbor. The Mediterranean is found east and south, while Spain’s interior is filled with mountains, rivers, forests, and deserts. Nearly one-quarter of Spain sits at or above 1,000 meters above sea level.
Spanish wines have changed significantly in the past few decades. Once, the reds and whites of Spain could be counted on to show significant barrel influences, with tart fruits and dry, somewhat oxidized notes, herbs, and cigar box aromas and flavors that delighted some wine lovers and confused others. Clearly, wine drinkers’ tastes have changed, and one cannot fault winemakers for rushing to make what their customers want.
However, can’t we keep a handful of old-style wines? There is enough homogeneity in our cities, entertainment, and wine.
Today, there are many different styles of Spanish wines, with most reds now being made in a fruit-forward, “international style.” The old-guard wines are still out there, but you must seek them out. However, the larger view clearly shows that more great wines are being made in Spain today than ever before. The reds based on the grapes Tempranillo and Garnacha alone are worth a deep dive into Spanish reds.
On the white wine front, the super versatile Viura is finally getting recognition as one of the world’s great white wine grapes. Albariño moved past its trendy-unknown phase decades ago and is now recognized as one of the most charming and refreshing wines made anywhere.
Like the French and Italians (and much of Europe), the Spanish have a regulatory body that determines the grape varieties used, the types of wine produced, and other factors within a given district.
Spanish Wine Appellations and Regulations
Wine regulations in Spain fall under the Denominación de Origen (DO), the equivalent of an Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) in France. Spain’s top category is the Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOC, DOCa, or DOQ). Don’t worry too much about this, as there are only two DOCs: Rioja and Priorat. Most Spanish wines fall into the DO category and will be labeled with their DO name, such as Montsant or Rías Baixas.
Like France and Italy, a Spanish wine label frequently shows just the name of the DO on the front label and no varietal information. However, if the grape is not indicated on the front label, it can often be found on the back label.
Another very useful practice in winemaking and labeling is the cellaring/aging information provided. You will often see the terms Joven, Crianza, Reserva, or Gran Reserva. The span of time required in both barrel and bottle before release is determined by each DO. In all cases, Joven will be the youngest wines, and these may not spend any time in wood, while Gran Reserva is the oldest, with red wines being aged in cask for at least 18 months and typically not released until five years after the vintage (harvest).
While it’s no guarantee, Reserva and Gran Reserva wines are often at the top of the quality pyramid. The sheer fact that the producer has reserved these wines for extended aging and a later release indicates a certain level of confidence. These wines can also be great values when compared to the other great wines of Europe and the USA. Try finding a five- to 10-year-old Napa Cabernet or Bordeaux for $25.
Sherry is made exclusively in Andalusia, Spain, near the city of Jerez de la Frontera. Unlike Port, Sherry is frequently bone-dry, offering many styles ranging from dry to sweet and unctuous. Best of all, these wines are still incredible values for money, punching well above their weight.
There are two fundamental types of Sherry: Fino and Oloroso, from which many variations are spawned. The primary difference between these two basic types is the “flor.” Flor is a protective film that develops spontaneously from airborne indigenous yeasts on the surface of the wine. Wines destined to be Fino are typically fortified to 15.5%, while Oloroso is fortified to 17% and above.
Spanish Wine Regions
Explore Spanish Wine Regions — A Look at the 20 Regions and their Appellations
Do you want to have a better understanding of Spanish Wines? May we suggest Be A Beverage Expert (BABE), a guide to understanding wine, beer, spirits, and cocktails.