The Unsung Wines of Lirac

I am a confessed lover of Côtes du Rhône wines – especially the Côtes du Rhône Villages and Cru (areas that have earned the right to have their names stand alone on the label) appellations. These are wines with gusto and personality, free of pretense. Here, Grenache is king, but this great varietal has a lot of support with the likes of the Rhone’s northern star, Syrah, as well as Mourvédre, Cinsault, Carignan, and others. (See French wine varietals)

The wines of the Southern Rhône can be simple and playful or deep and complex, and sometimes, they are both. These are wines for all seasons, being congenial dinner companions or perfect for sipping solo. (See French wine appellations)

Among the great Cru wines of the Southern Rhône, the often-forgotten appellation of Lirac is often forgotten. Somehow, Lirac is overshadowed by its peers, Gigondas, Vacqueras, and Rasteau, despite being a much older French AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée, which translates as “controlled designation of origin” – France’s official designations given to wines, cheeses, and other products).

Lirac gained AOC status in 1947 and was the first Côtes du Rhône Cru to produce all three colors: red, white, and rosé. Despite still producing all three, Lirac is dominated by red wines at 85% of production, followed by whites at 9% and rosé at 6%.

The production area of Lirac covers 782 hectares on the right bank of the Rhône, 15km northeast of Avignon. Its famous neighbor Châteaunef-du-Pape occupies the left bank. Here, the climate is purely Mediterranean, with many sunny days, near-constant breezes, and ideal temperatures. The soils include limestone plateaus with red clay and large pebbles (a hallmark of many top Southern Rhône appellations), as well as central alluvial terraces featuring red clay on sand.

The Wines of Lirac

It’s most sensible to focus on the red wines of Lirac as the other colors are rarely seen outside of the region. The red wines of Lirac are made with varying blends of Grenache Noir, Syrah, Mourvédre, and Cinsault. They are noted for their rich, red berry fruit flavors, supported by dried blackberries, herbs, and loads of brown baking spices, such as allspice, clove, and nutmeg, and often a healthy dose of anise.

I’m a huge fan of these wines, and I am wont to buy them from restaurant wine lists when, on rare occasions, I spot them. Most serious wine retailers will offer a few Liracs. Most of the time, these wines can be had for under $20, and I have rarely seen them exceed $30, making them relative values.

If you, too, are a fan of Côtes du Rhône wines and have become devotees of Gigondas or Rasteau, you owe it to yourself to seek out the wines of Lirac before they become famous and expensive!

Want a quick infographic to better understand French wines?

A few Lirac wines that you may encounter

Château de Montfaucon Côtes du Rhône Lirac – typically a blend of 50% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 20% Cinsault, and 10% Carignan, the wine has been fermented in concrete tanks (a common method in France). The nose is filled with raspberries, cherries, and blackcurrants with peppery notes.

Domaine de la Mordorée “La Reine des Bois” Lirac – This is an intense wine with notes of blackberry, cassis, licorice, and cedar. It’s beautiful young but will age for 5 to 10 years with ease.

Domaine de l’Eyrolle Lirac 2018
Brilliant, dark crimson color. The aromatics are very intense offering scents of black fruits and red cherry with supporting notes of raspberry, dried herbs, black plum, and cocoa. The palate confirms the nose delivering a red and black fruits-driven core with flavors of blackberry, black tea, red currant, anise, and oak. The finish is long and lingering with chewy tannins. Full-bodied and nicely balanced with a voluptuous texture. $25 4 Stars/93 points

Do you want to better understand French wine? May we suggest Be A Beverage Expert (BABE), a guide to understanding wine, beer, spirits, and cocktails.