Wine was made in the North American territory now known as the USA before there was a Declaration of Independence, let alone an independence victory. The English Crown wanted the spoils from its colony in America, and wine was among them. The House of Burgesses passed Acte 12 in 1619, requiring every male household in Virginia to plant 10 vines of imported vinifera grapes for the purpose of making wine. These experiments were largely unsuccessful, but the die was cast, to quote Caesar once more.
The USA ranks fourth in the world in wine production. It’s a very solid number four, as it’s some distance from the European three that dominate the world, and it’s a safe distance ahead of number five, Australia. The USA is number one in overall consumption, but nowhere near the top ten in per capita consumption. So, the USA is a huge market for the world’s winemakers, but the average consumer in the USA has not made wine part of their life as they have in Europe.
Today, wine is made in all 50 states (explore USA wine regions). Sometimes, it’s made in small amounts, and perhaps it’s not your cup of tea, but it is wine nonetheless. However, one state towers above the rest and carries the majority of the load — California. California produces over 80% of the wine produced in the USA. If you’re feeling a little less adventurous, you may think that you can ignore all but California and have a pretty good grasp on American wine. Not only would it be a colossal mistake, but you would deprive yourself of discovering some incredible wines.
A Brief History of USA Wine
Winemaking in California began long before it became the 31st state in 1850. Franciscan monks first planted grapes in California near San Diego in 1769. They methodically moved north up the coast, establishing missions and vineyards that, by 1823, reached from the Mexican border to Sonoma County.
Soon after, various European settlers established vineyards in California, bringing their native grapes, winemaking techniques, and knowledge. It can be argued that among these European settlers, no one had a greater lasting impact on the development of wine in California than Agoston Haraszthy. Haraszthy was the first Hungarian to settle permanently in the United States and is widely considered to be the Father of California Viticulture.
By 1890, California was producing nearly 11 million cases of wine annually. Shortly thereafter, the destructive vine louse phylloxera ravaged many California vineyards, just as it had in France and Spain. Fortunately, the answer was alive in American soils, as native American rootstock is immune to phylloxera, and winemakers could simply graft European vines onto American roots.
Once recovered from the vine pest, a far more potent plague crippled the California wine industry: the federal government. Prohibition struck a heavy blow to the wine industry in many respects. Wineries were dismantled, winemaking skills skipped a generation, and varieties grown had shifted toward hearty grapes with thick skins that could make the journey to all parts of the nation where home winemaking was permitted — in limited quantities.
In the 1950s, three-quarters of the wine produced was fortified, including cheap knockoffs of Port, Sherry, and similar wines. By 1968, the balance of wine styles was shifting, but half of California’s total wine production was still dedicated to fortified wines.
Similar fates were delivered in other wine-producing states. Pre-Prohibition, New York led the nation in wine production; today, it’s third in the USA, producing less than 5% of California’s output.
Despite the enormous disparity in production, the USA is truly a wine-producing nation from coast to coast. Many casual wine drinkers will be aware that Washington State (2nd in production), Oregon (5th in production), and Virginia (10th in production) make some damn fine wines. Many would be shocked to learn that states like Pennsylvania (4th in production) and Michigan (7th in production) also make tasty wine.
America’s vast landmass and numerous macro- and microclimates are well-suited to growing specific grapes and creating unique wines. It’s not all Cabernet and Chardonnay; rather, sometimes grapes like Vidal, Marquette, and Norton, just to name a few, produce wines that capture your imagination. That’s a good thing.
Explore USA Wine Regions (States)
Do you want to better understand USA wine? May we suggest Be A Beverage Expert (BABE), a guide to understanding wine, beer, spirits, and cocktails.