Viognier is native to France’s Northern Rhône. It still thrives in the Northern Rhône (and is also found in white blends of the Southern Rhône), where it is the sole grape of Condrieu AOC. Within Condrieu, there is a single estate, Château-Grillet, that has earned its own AOC and produces wines exclusively with Viognier. There are a few instances when a single estate owns an AOC. The French refer to this rare situation as a monopole.
While France is far and away the number one producer of Viognier, in the eyes of many, this charming grape has become a global star, gaining prominence in Australia and the USA and showing surprising growth in Italy.
Viognier is a bit of a chameleon, taking on the characteristics of climate and, most importantly, the winemaking choices. Oak is chief among winemaker decisions, as you can make two vastly different wines by choosing to age in oak versus stainless steel or larger, neutral oak casks.
New oak will add color and secondary notes of baking spices and vanilla, giving the wine a creamy texture and low acidity. Steel aging retains much of Viognier’s modest acidity while focusing on its floral and tropical characteristics. Generally, Viognier produces wines with incomparable aromas and flavors reminiscent of a unique hybrid of apricot, peach, and lush tropical fruits.
Viognier is best grown in relatively cooler conditions, where it can retain its vibrant, bright acidity, which all but disappears when it becomes overripe. Outside the Rhône, excellent Viognier can be found in Washington State (Walla Walla and Columbia Valley), in Australia (Eden Valley and Adelaide Hills), in Paso Robles (California), and in Virginia.
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