BevX readers know that we love the wines of Italy for many reasons, chief among them is the fact that you can enjoy a wine made with a different Italian grape every day and at year’s end you still have more grapes to discover.
Some wine drinkers find this intimidating but we find the incredible variety of varietals stimulates our sense of adventure.
Beautiful Ciliegiolo Grapes
A grape that is thrilling us lately is a beautiful red variety called Ciliegiolo. Wine writer/educator Ian D’Agata in his great book, Native Wine Grapes of Italy says that Ciliegiolo is “one of the country’s greatest but most under appreciated grape varieties.” We wholeheartedly agree.
The name Ciliegiolo means “little cherry” in Italian, which is appropriate as the round grapes look like a cherry and its wines smell and taste like cherries.
It’s difficult to say how long Ciliegiolo has been used to make wine. The first written accounts seem to have been made in the 1600s by Soderini.
Through the centuries there has been a great deal of confusion regarding the grape’s origins. Ciliegiolo was once believed to be of Spanish origin — brought to Italy by pilgrims. Ciliegiolo has long been linked with the famous Sangiovese grape. Many longtime producers in Tuscany from Siena to Montalcino believe that for many years Ciliegiolo had been included in many wines that were believed to be 100% Sangiovese.
The similarities of the two varietals (Ciliegiolo and Sangiovese) led many researchers to believe that the two were related but it was unsure if one was a parent or if they were perhaps siblings. Current evidence strongly suggests that Sangiovese is a parent to Ciliegiolo and most experts agree.
Like Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo is primarily associated with Tuscany but can be found throughout much of central Italy (notably Umbria and Lazio) as well as north in Liguria and south in Puglia. Ciliegiolo is utilized in roughly 20 DOC (what are DOC wines?) wines primarily in central Italy and many more IGT blends.
Ciliegiolo grows in bunches that are large and long with relatively large, round berries. It prefers hillsides with good drainage, a steady breeze to stave-off rot, and warm — but not too hot — temperatures. If Ciliegiolo is grown in too hot of a climate it tends to create high sugars and diminished acidity. When Ciliegiolo is done right it exhibits generous fruit with bright red cherry notes with sour cherry accents framed by silky tannins.
Until recently I could only enjoy Ciliegiolo while traveling in Italy, Luckily several Ciliegiolo wines can be found in the USA. We have reviewed three of these wines below:
Fattoria di Fibbiano Ciliegiolo IGT Toscano 2016
Brilliant, deep scarlet color. The aromatics are very intense offering scents of red cherry and forest floor with supporting notes of raspberry and leather. The palate confirms the nose delivering a red fruit-driven core with flavors of red plum, pomegranate, mineral, and five spice. The finish is long and lingering with supple tannins. Medium to full-bodied and perfectly balanced with a meaty yet vibrant texture. $35 4 Stars/93 points
Santa Lucia Ciliegiolo IGT Toscano 2015
Brilliant, deep ruby color. The aromatics are very intense offering scents of red cherry and black currant with supporting notes of black pepper, thyme, and rose petals. The palate confirms the nose delivering a red fruit-driven core with flavors of ripe red berries, raspberry, and vanilla. The finish is long and lingering with silky tannins. Medium to full-bodied and nicely balanced with a velvety texture. $18 4 Stars/92 points
Tenuta Montauto Silio Ciliegiolo IGT Toscano 2018
Brilliant, medium ruby color. The aromatics are very intense offering scents of red cherry and cocoa with supporting notes of red plum, mineral, cassis, and dried herbs. The palate confirms the nose delivering a red fruit-driven core with flavors of black currant, hibiscus flower, anise, and five spice. The finish is long and lingering with silky tannins. Medium to full-bodied and perfectly balanced with a supple texture. $19 4 Stars/91 points