The Modern Haggis

Haggis is one of those foods that provokes a near-physical response with just a whisper of its name. If you suggest that haggis grace a dinner plate… your nervous guests may scamper for the door. It’s no secret that some Americans are pretty squeamish when it comes to new foods, and even adventurous eaters may wrinkle their noses at the sight of innards.

Of course, one man’s treasure is another man’s rubbish, which is certainly true with food. Some may bristle at the mention of haggis – this is a reaction that I reserve for the thought of ordering my meal by shouting from a car window into a clown face.

In truth, most people outside of Scotland and the UK have never seen Haggis. In the UK, several brands of Haggis are available in the fresh and frozen butcher sections of major supermarkets. There is even a canned version of haggis, sans the sheep stomach, which is the only way to get haggis legally in the USA. Getting the real McCoy in the US can be tricky as several key components of traditional haggis have been deemed “unfit for human consumption” by the clever folks in the US government.

Despite the lack of officially sanctioned haggis, you can still enjoy a tasty and “American-friendly” version at home. The recipe that I offer here is my best adaptation of a haggis I enjoyed at a great inn in the Scottish Highlands. This “modern” version blew me away as it captured the rich and rustic flavors of traditional haggis with a bit of airiness and depth created by browning the smaller haggis sausages.

We are not offering a traditional haggis recipe here. Most accomplished home cooks can make this version; the ingredients can be found in most US groceries. This recipe takes a bit of time to accomplish, but it is easy to make. Most importantly, it is a recipe that your guests will eagerly consume. I know; I proved it in my own home. Serve alongside neeps and tatties (mashed turnips and potatoes), as well as the haggis gravy.

Get the recipe

Haggis (A modern recipe)

• Lamb – 1 1/2 lbs ground
• Veal (or beef) – 1 lbs ground
• Chicken liver – 1/2 lbs
• Beef liver – 1/4 lbs
• Onions – 2, diced
• Carrots – 3, small dice
• Garlic – 4 cloves diced fine
• Oatmeal (the real stuff – steel-cut oats) – 1.5 cups
• Brown stock (beef, lamb, veal) – 1 1/2 to 2 cups
• Cayenne pepper – 1/2 tsp
• Salt – 1.5 tsp
• Brown Spices, ground – 2 tsp (the pumpkin pie spice in your pantry works just fine)
• Nutmeg – 1/2 tsp
• Sage – 2 tbls finely chopped

Slowly sauté the onions and carrots until very soft and lightly colored. Be sure to add salt and pepper to taste. When soft, add the garlic and cook until it softens and becomes fragrant. Turn off the heat and stir in the chopped sage. Allow this mixture to cool.

Slowly toast the oatmeal in a low to medium heat pan, turning frequently and ensuring it does not burn. You want to achieve a light, nut-brown color and it will also smell a bit nutty. When this oatmeal toasting is complete, set it aside and allow it to cool.

Separately, cook the chicken and beef livers in boiling, salted water for three minutes. Drain well and then sauté both liver varieties until lightly browned. Be careful, as the livers will blacken quickly if not carefully watched. When fully cooked, set aside and allow the livers to cool. When cool, place the liver into the large bowl of a food processor along with 1/4 cup of the stock and the ground brown spices and blitz until it is just finely chopped – no more.

At this point, you can combine all of the ingredients, including the raw ground lamb and veal, in a large bowl, stirring to combine well. Slowly add the brown stock, stirring until it is absorbed. You want to add enough moisture for the oatmeal to absorb. Refrigerate the mixture for at least four hours or preferably overnight to allow the flavors to combine.

Two Methods for Prepping and Cooking Your Homemade Haggis

Loaf pan method: (Our preferred method) Lightly oil a loaf pan and fill it with the haggis mixture. You want first to steam the haggis so you have to find a roasting pan or pot that can hold the loaf pan and a cover. Heat about a half-inch of stock in the pot. Cover tightly and allow the haggis to steam for an hour. Remove from the heat and leave the haggis covered for at least an hour. In a 400-degree oven, roast the loaf pan uncovered for 15 minutes or until the top has browned and formed a light crust. Serve with the haggis sauce, recipe below.

Sausage method: Stuff the haggis in pork casings. (Tricky to do for many home cooks, but it is attractive.) Put the haggis links on a rack in a roasting pan with about a half-inch of stock beneath. Cover with foil. Bring the stock to a low simmer for one hour. Remove from the heat and leave the haggis covered for at least an hour. Drain the stock and use the roasting pan to brown the haggis on both sides. Serve immediately, return the rack and stock to the pan, and keep the haggis warm. Serve with the haggis sauce, recipe below.

The sauce

• Onion – 1 halved and sliced
• Carrot – 1 cut into 1-inch pieces
• Garlic – 3 whole cloves
• Butter – 4 tbls
• Dried chili – 1
• Cloves whole – 4
• Sage – 4 whole leaves
• Juniper berries
• Allspice, whole, 1/2 teaspoon
• Black Peppercorns, whole, 1/2 teaspoon
• Lavender 1/2 teaspoon
• Flour – 2 tbls
• Scotch Whisky – 3 oz.
• Beef Stock – 4 cups
• Black Currant Jam – 1 tbls

Sweat the onions and carrot with the olive oil over medium heat. When soft and lightly colored, add the garlic and stir until fragrant. Add the chili and all of the herbs and spices. Cook for two minutes until it is quite fragrant. Stir in flour and combine well. Cook for a couple of minutes until the flour has lost its raw scent. Add the Whisky and stir in quickly. A consistent paste should form. Add the stock and combine well. Bring the mixture to a boil, lower to simmer, and cook for 20 minutes. Strain the sauce, removing all spices and herbs. Keep the sauce warm until needed.