Beverage of the Week (BOW)

Product Story

The 2023 Esprit de Tablas is a charming, nuanced homage to Châteauneuf du Pape, made in Paso Robles by Tablas Creek. As their flagship red blend, it consistently impresses, never failing to rate at 96 points or greater in our 11 years of evaluations. It is crafted from a blend of 33% Mourvedre, 31% Syrah, 26% Grenache, 6% Cinsaut, 2% Counoise, and 2% Vaccarese. The blend changes from vintage to vintage, but Mourvedre always leads the Esprit de Tablas, even though it is just 33% (the lowest we have seen) of the blend this vintage. The 2023 vintage started with our wettest winter on record, which replenished groundwater and delayed budbreak. It was followed by the coolest growing season in over 10 years. The Esprit de Tablas grapes were grown on its certified organic and biodynamic estate vineyard. They were fermented with native yeasts in wooden, upright, 1,500-gallon fermenters and closed, stainless steel tanks. The best lots were blended in June 2024 and then rested in 1,200-gallon foudres before bottling in July 2025. This wine will improve with age in the cellar — leave it for at least a decade.

Brand Story

Tablas Creek is a unique player in the California wine scene. They are undisputed pioneers in the movement of Rhône-styled wines in California, and many consider them to be the absolute best in their class. While many wineries in California produce wines with classic Rhône varietals, Tablas Creek crafts wines that embody the heart and soul of the Rhône. Founded in 1989 through a partnership between two iconic wine families—the Perin family of Château de Beaucastel and the Haas family of Vineyard Brands—they selected vineyard sites in Paso Robles, imported vine cuttings from the Rhône, and built vineyards and a winery from the ground up. Their vineyard in the Adelaida District of Paso Robles closely matches the climatic conditions and soils found at Château de Beaucastel. Their wines are distinctly different from typical Californian styles. While they are not merely copies of Rhône wines, they represent a unique expression of Paso Robles fruit grown at elevation, complemented by the winemaking expertise of an old Rhône master. I appreciate how Tablas Creek wines consistently reflect their respective vineyards and vintages. The wines convey a sense of expert management rather than manipulation. Bravo!