Rome’s Spectacular Mercato Campagna Amica

Mercato Campagna Amica
Via di S. Teodoro, 74, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
Open Saturday and Sunday 8:00 to 15:00

The Mercato Campagna Amica at Circo Massimo, also known as the Campagna Amica Market at Circus Maximus, is an indoor weekend farmers’ market located in the heart of historic Rome, situated between the Roman Forum/Palatine Hill and the Tiber River near the ancient Circus Maximus ruins.

It features dozens of vendors representing local farms, wineries, breweries, and artisans from the Lazio region. Visitors are greeted with a wide selection of fresh, seasonal products—all grown, raised, or produced within a 100-250 km radius under the “kilometer-zero” philosophy to promote sustainability and reduce transport. A diverse range of fresh produce, cheeses, meats, and charcuterie is available, along with breads, pasta, olive oil, legumes, and wine.

Shoppers can find fruits, vegetables, cheeses, dairy products, meats, fish, olive oils, honey, preserves, bread, pasta, legumes, wines, plants, and flowers, many of which carry the “Sigilli di Campagna Amica” certification for rare or rescued-from-extinction varieties like the Atina cannellini bean or Onano lentil. The market also features food trucks and “Cuochi Contadini” (farmer-chefs) preparing traditional street food such as fried fish, porchetta sandwiches, soups, and grilled meats.

Most shoppers are primarily locals looking for quality products to prepare their weekend meals. We were extremely envious of those with proper kitchens at home who could fill their bags with a treasure chest of foods and wines that would soon feed their families. On a future trip, we will rent an apartment with a kitchen in order to take full advantage of this tremendous market. It was a bittersweet paradox of joyful voyeurism, with the subtle torment of imagining the smells and tastes of these products as they collaborated in a homemade Roman feast. Luckily, a glass of local craft beer and a simple yet delicious pizza bianca with mortadella quelled thoughts of missing out.

A Bit of History of Mercato Campagna Amica

The Campagna Amica Foundation launched the market in 2008 to foster direct links between Italian farmers and consumers. The Circo Massimo (Circus Maximus) site opened in 2009. Since then, the network has expanded rapidly, now comprising over 1,200 markets, 170 stores, and 1,500 agriturismi (farm stays) throughout Italy, with additional indoor facilities being planned, including one near Circo Massimo.

The market is located in the area of ancient Forum Boarium that thrived here near the original docks of Rome along the Tiber. The Forum Boarium was built in the second century BC and continued through the sack of Rome in the fifth century AD. This was ancients Rome’s largest fish and meat market so it is fitting that a spectacular market has returned to the hallowed site.

The founders of Campagna Amica trace their origins to Coldiretti, Italy’s largest farmers’ union, which established the organization in 2008 during a crisis affecting small-scale agriculture. For the specific Circo Massimo market, it was co-founded in 2009 by Pietro Hausmann and two others, who envisioned it as a model for urban-rural integration.

The market’s cultural influence cannot be overstated, even though it is barely a conscious thought for Romans. Italy, especially Rome, seamlessly blends urban and rural sensibilities. Those connected to the paved urban landscape are well aware of where their food comes from and the skill and effort needed to produce the foods that they and their ancestors have valued for thousands of years.

For those of us who crave gastronomic pleasures, a trip to the Mercato Campagna Amica is a must when visiting Rome. The sights, sounds, and smells conspire to make this a happy place for all lovers of food and cooking.

Make the most of your visit to the Eternal City with our “Guide to Maximizing Your Trip to Rome.”

Learn more about Rome’s Mercato Campagna Amica at their website.