Montepulciano Grapes Ready for Cerasuolo
Despite Rosé now properly being mainstream, with the number of choices growing every spring, there is scandalously still a Rosé living in obscurity – Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo.
Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo is a DOC in central Italy in the Abruzzo region and within the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo area. I believe this is the only DOC in Italy dedicated to Rosato or Rosé wines. The DOC was granted in 2010, with the 2011 vintage being the first to brandish the new moniker on the label. Rosé was made in the region for decades before 2010, but it was simply labeled as Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Rosato.
Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo must be made with a minimum of 85% Montepulciano, and most of the labels I have sampled utilize 100% Montepulciano. As it turns out, Montepulciano makes a delicious Rosé. It is not hard to imagine, as Montepulciano has always provided great color, bright floral notes, and juicy red fruit with tame tannins.
Like most Rosé, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo is best enjoyed in the summer following the vintage. However, I imagine that a few of the more sturdy and dark examples I have seen would do well for another summer. Cerasuolo (cherry-like in Italian) offers a bright cherry to violet color with complex aromatics and flavors of red berries with tart pomegranate and great acidity. These wines are equally happy quenching your thirst with nothing more than a glass or pairing with grilled fowl, smoked salmon, and bold vegetable dishes.
There are not many Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo in the US, but it is worth asking your local wine merchant to see if they can locate a few bottles. While many Rosé wines from Provence suffer from a bit of fame, resulting in higher prices and wines that are becoming exceedingly more pale with each new vintage (generally), I am pleased to have great options like Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo.