Discovering Beaujolais – Beyond Nouveau

Everyone can name an actor, or band, that consistently does good work but is — sadly — most often associated with something that is trivial at best or embarrassing at worst. While the entire body of work is admirable, the public will forever associate them with one viral moment. Such is the plight of Beaujolais — a beautiful wine-growing district producing wines of character and style.

The charming wines of Beaujolais lie deeply within the shadow of their famous product, Beaujolais Nouveau. Nouveau, while fun, is the biggest load of pop, fluff, and some would say drivel that Beaujolais produces each year. However, Beaujolais is so much more — dare I say, a serious wine.

The Beaujolais district lies in the southern Burgundy region — due south of Pouilly-Fuissé, stretching 34 miles toward the Rhône Valley — running parallel to the Saône River. Beaujolais is recognized in three general categories that cover 12 appellations. A wine labeled simply as Beaujolais is the broadest appellation followed by Beaujolais-Village, which comes from a select group of 38 villages in the northern half of the region and have been recognized as producing wines of superior quality. The third and top designations are Cru Beaujolais, which encompass 10 individual villages within the Beaujolais-Villages zone whose quality merits distinction.

The wines lovely red wines of Beaujolais are made exclusively with Gamay, a natural cross of Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc. Gamay dominates the appellation, accounting for 98% of Beaujolais’ vines. While red wines are king here, it must be noted that both Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Village produce Rosé wines (made from Gamay) and white wines made from Chardonnay. Beaujolais Blanc is not frequently seen outside of the region, but Rosé production in Beaujolais is rising as demand for Rosé grows.

Cru Beaujolais

Ten of Beaujolais 12 appellations are dedicated to its “crus” — unique zones in the north of Beaujolais that have been recognized for their superior wines. These Cru Beaujolais are permitted to label their wines with the village name alone; one would have to examine the label carefully to find the word Beaujolais.

Each of these crus has a unique character but can be categorized into four tiers based on weight and intensity to better understand the crus.

The first group comprises the lightest and most delicate of the crus:

Brouilly — this is the largest cru, and it has been recognized as an AOC since 1938. The wines are fruity and delicate, redolent of red plums with a generous dose of minerality.

Chiroubles — vines grow at between 250 and 450 meters in altitude and are very fruit-forward with a great, silky texture.

Regnie — is the youngest of the crus, being elevated to its current status in 1988. The wines are light, fruity, and very easy to drink — best consumed within three years of the vintage.

The second tier of wines are a bit more intense and structured, aging well for five years or more:

Cote de Brouilly — wines are produced in a picturesque natural setting, sometimes referred to as the “greenhorn.” The wines are structured with more tannins and black fruits than one would expect in Beaujolais.

Saint Amour — Love is in the name and can be found in the playful cupid imagery on the town’s street corners. The wines are very floral and intense, with rich raspberry and cherry brandy notes framed by soft tannins.

Fleurie — named for a Roman legionary. The wines are often called the most “feminine” of the crus, but this certainly does not mean they lack flavor and structure. In the glass, it is quite floral, with rich, ripe red cherry notes rising on the palate.

More robust still are the wines from:

Morgon — is one of the most famous of the crus. Some 250 growers are active in this appellation, producing age-worthy wines with a distinctive sour cherry accent and chewy tannins.

Julienas — wines grow across the southern and south-eastern slopes of Mont du Bessay. The appellation takes its name from a famous Roman emperor remembered locally for his conquests while a General rather than the infamy of the Ides of March. The wines are bold, with a bit of spice supporting the sweet and tart red fruits. These wines are often hitting their stride five years post-vintage.

Chenas — is the smallest appellation in Beaujolais in terms of surface area. It takes its name from the tall, ancient oak forests that once covered this area. The wines deliver more black fruits than most Beaujolais with spicy accents, as well as tart cherries.

The last category is reserved for a wine like no other:

Moulin à Vent — This sturdy, full-bodied wine is lovely in its youth and is capable of aging gracefully for a decade or more. The vineyards that produce this appellation are located in the villages of Romanèche-Thorins and Chénas. The appellation takes its name from the windmill (moulin), standing at 278 meters, that sits at the center of the Moulin à Vent vineyards. The wines are very aromatic, with scents of rose petals and truffle supported by rich, cheery fruit and generous spice notes.

I have chosen to use this space to discuss the appellation rather than the producers. However, when discussing Beaujolais, it is impossible to exclude the name Georges Duboeuf. Duboeuf was born in the region of Pouilly-Fuissé, just north of Beaujolais, into a family that had been cultivating vineyards since the 18th century. At the age of 19, Georges had bottled a wine of his own and sold it to restaurants in his local villages. Soon, Duboeuf earned a reputation as a supplier of quality wines, and in 1964, he launched “Les Vins Georges Duboeuf.” An International Exhibition in Montreal in the year 1968 brought Duboeuf’s wines global recognition and acclaim. Today, his colleagues and wine admirers respectfully regard Georges Duboeuf as the “King of Beaujolais.”

Restaurants, to a large degree, have been slow to include Cru Beaujolais on their wine lists. This is unfortunate considering that Beaujolais is wonderful at the table, marrying well with a variety of dishes. The great crus of Beaujolais, especially the heartier ones discussed above, have far more in common with California and Oregon Pinot Noir than with what most people know as standard Beaujolais. Best of all, most Cru Beaujolais can be had for half the price of what many USA Pinot Noirs are fetching at your local retailer.

These are wines worth your seeking out. A comparative tasting of the crus is great fun for any wine lover. While incorporating a Beaujolais Blanc and a Rosé in the mix, you can serve Beaujolais wines throughout a celebratory, multi-course meal. Enjoy.